Having said that, with the right tools, a willingness to learn and a modicum of patience, you should be able to easily perform most of the work discussed here by yourself.  If you have further questions, don't hesitate to post them to the appropriate forum in http://www.bmwlt.net.  If you have information you would like to see added to the FAQ, 

There seems to be some success with "super white" bulbs from PIAA which supposedly put out more light with the same rating.  However, the best alternatives are adding aftermarket driving lights and a true High Intensity Discharge (HID) lighting system.  Note: when we say HID, we're talking about true HID systems (ballast and plasma bulb), not the cheap Xenon/HID rip-offs you see on the web that are nothing but blue painted bulbs.

Refer to the Accessories section on lighting for sources of these products

For a great read on all the install ideas and issues on HID lights, read this thread.

"I also was a bit annoyed with the squeaking, and tried a couple of things to stop it, such as silicone spray (worked for only a few days). I had had good luck getting V-belts to stop squealing with Permatex Belt Dressing and Conditioner, available from most auto supply stores in a small spray can. I used the little tube in the spray nozzle and put a little on each side where the rubber seal rubs against the plastic fork bridge cover, and the noise went away, for a LONG time! Now, maybe twice year when the squeaking starts to come back I just put a few drops of this on each side again. Works like a charm. Use the little red tube and put it under the rubber, then work the bars back and forth to distribute it."

There's no doubt, PIAAs on EzyMounts are great.  Mototlights are great.  XYZ lights are also likely to be great at lighting your way and making you more visible to oncoming traffic.  But at the end of the day, NOTHING out shines true HID lighting.  You see more, you see farther, and you'll be seen better with HID than with anything else.  Period.  End of story.  So just do it.

There are commercial kits available as well.  Some even add additional functionality.  Refer to the Accessories page and/or review the discussion in this thread.

One other note:  On a hot day, it is typical for your sidestand to sink in the asphalt and your bike may fall over.  Try a small piece of aluminum plate (or similar) under the sidestand when you park.  Don't forget to pick it up when you leave.  Also, the same sinking problem can occur using the center stand on a hot day.  Beware of parking your bike on the sidestand in heavy winds, the substantial area of this bike could cause a tip over depending on location and slant  If unsure, put the bike near a wall or perhaps pointing into the wind.

First of all, this is like religion and politics so there's going to continue to be lots of debate here.  However, here are the key facts:

1) Synthetic Oil is OK for your bike!  It has to be, BMW sells a synthetic motorcycle oil.  They would not do that if it was bad for your bike.

2) Synthetic Oil may be detrimental to the new-engine break in process.  Therefore, most folks recommend waiting until your 18,000 mile service to make the switch.  Some even go longer pushing the switch to synthetic out beyond the 36,000 mile service.  What seems beyond question is that you don't want synthetic in the motor while the rings are trying to seat.  Since BMW motors tend to take many miles to break in properly, it's best to wait at least 18,000 miles before using synthetic motor oil.

There are countless threads on this topic in our archives including this one.  There is another good one here.

If you're still confused, type "synthetic oil" and "break in" into Google and hold on to your horses.

To Enter Programming Mode:

1) With the ignition turned off and the alarm system armed - press the "A" button to deactivate the alarm (parking lights flash once.  Within 12 seconds, ground the programming plug with your adaptor.

2) Press the "A" button twice.  You'll hear two beeps, then a long beeping tone.  The turn signals will flash twice and the LED will go off.

3) Turn the ignition on within 12 seconds but don't start the bike!  The beeper will sound three times in succession at different pitches.

The programming function is now ACTIVE:

4) Remove the ground from the programming plug.

5) On pre-'03 bikes, there are 10 channels to program using the "A" or "B" buttons.
Only 5 are used by the K1200LT - Channels 1, 5, 7, 8, and 9

You program the channels by pressing either the "A" or "B" button until you have pressed 10 buttons.

Channel Function "A" "B"

1 Beeping Tone ON Off
2 Free
3 Free
4 Free
5 Panic Alarm ON Off
6 Free
7 Tone Type Beep Steady
8 Automatic Immobilizer ON Off
9 Automatic Alarm Activation ON Off
10 Free

After the 10th choice programming is complete you will hear three consecutive beeps

6) Turn off the ignition.  The beeper will sound three times at different pitches.

Note that the system is now armed.

NOTE - If automatic Alarm activation is selected then Automatic Imobilization MUST also be set on.

Here's how many people like to set up their alarms:

1 "A"
2 "A"
3 "A"
4 "A"
5 "A"
6 "A"
7 "A"
8 "B"
9 "B"
10 "A"

And this is what it means:

1 - Beeping Tone ON
5 - Panic Alarm ON
7 - Tone Type Intermittent
8 - Auto Immobilizer OFF
9 - Auto Alarm OFF

IMPORTANT NOTE:  Looks like they did change the alarm programming sequence for '03, there are 12 settings as opposed to the 10 previously:

1 Unused
2 Unused
3 Unused
4 Unused
5 Unused
6 Panic Alarm (used to be 5)
7 Unused
8 Tone Type (used to be 7)
9 Beeper Tone (used to be #1)
10 Unused
11 Automatic Activation of Alarm (was 9)
12 Automatic Activation of Immobilizer (was 8 - note alarm and immobilizer are reversed from prior instructions)

Don't worry about it.  Many LT owners use this vibration as a shift indicator.  Just blast through it and all will be well.

The first and most important rule is to ensure that the bike is parked correctly on the sidestand to start (see above) and that it's on level ground free of sand/oil/rocks/mud/antifreeze/diesel.  Next, stand on the left side and face the bike.  Place your right foot on the center stand and lower it until it just touches the ground BUT DON'T PUSH DOWN YET!  You just want the center stand touching the ground lightly with your foot resting on it.

Now, grasp the left hand grip with your left hand and the under-seat handle with your right.  Rock the bike up until it's level while placing a SMALL AMOUNT of pressure on the center stand with your foot.  What you are looking for here is to ensure that both center stand feet are touching the ground.  You'll know the bike is centered (level left/right) when you feel both center stand feet engage the ground.  Now you're ready for the final step:

Place your FULL body weight on your right foot while your left hand engages the clutch and your right hand lifts straight up and back toward your body.  The bike will pop right up with minimal effort!  You'll know you're doing it right if a) it's much easier than you thought and b) you end the process standing on the center stand with your right foot, your left foot pointing out in the air for balance and the bike on the center stand.

What's all this talk about rear drives failing?

In most (but not all) cases, the bearing retainer fails which results in the seal being destroyed and a loss of fluid (possibly on to the rear tire!).  There seems to also be no pattern to any warning signs of impending failure.  Some have noted odd vibration or play in the rear wheel (side-to-side motion) but many others have had no warning what so ever.

At this time (late '03), BMW has not made any official comment other than to say they are looking at the issue and that they will consider warranty coverage on a case-by-case basis for those owners that experience a failure out of warranty.

Those experiencing a rear drive failure are strongly encouraged to enter their experience in our survey here and to contact the NHTSA as well.

Retainer Clip 07 11 9 987 611 - $0.16  (Good to Have a few of these) 
Bushing  23 41 7 650 149 - $.038  (Good to have a few of these)
Shift Arm 23 41 2 332 277 - $69.72
Shift Linkage Ball Joint  23 41 1 461 432 - $1.52  (Good to get 3 of these)
Shift Linkage Ball Pin 07 11 9 901 736 - $1.56
Shift Linkage Selector Rod (Short) 23 41 2 332 281 - $15.60
Shift Linkage Selector Rod (Long) 23 41 2 332 282 - $17.68

EBC makes a direct replacement pad (FA304 Kevlar) that is easier on your rotor but does not improve brake function.  The also now make a sintered pad (FA304HH) that works MUCH better.  However, the FA304HH is new (as of mid-2002) and can be hard to find.  If you don't mind a little more work and want better rear brake function right away, you can use EBC FA244HH sintered pads (made for some random Ducati).  However, these require a slight modification.  Instructions are at http://www.sayegh.org/BMW/brakes.htm   You can also buy pads that are modified already at the same site.

UPDATE: There is a new service bulletin from BMW that addresses this issue.  Several folks have had their rear brake rotors replaced with one of a new design by their dealers under warranty.  If your brakes make noise, try asking your dealer fix it per the service bulletin.

To address the hesitation problem, BMW modified the Motronic to include an alternate map that eliminates the troublesome feature BUT requires the use of Premium Grade fuel.  This was made as a "running line change" in July of 2000 so any LT manufactured after that date SHOULD have the new Motronic but the only way to know for sure is have your dealer connect the bike to their computer and read out your Motronic's part number.  

If you have the later Motronic, you still need to activate the alternate map to resolve the hesitation problem (more on that in a minute).  BMW has issued a service bulletin to their dealers authorizing them to replace older single-map Motronics if a) your bike is still under warranty and b) you bitch and moan loud enough.  This is really going to depend on how well your dealer works with you but keep trying, and you should get results.

Once you ensure you have the new two-map Motronic, there are two possible ways to activate the alternate fuel map:

1) If your bike is a 2002 or later, look under the seat near the battery along the right side frame rail.  You should find a single exposed loop of brown wire taped to the outside of the wire loom that runs along there.  You can find pictures of this wire in the service bulletin or on the main board by doing a search for "brown wire" (be sure to select "All Posts" and "All Forums" when searching).  Once you identify the correct brown wire, just cut it.  This will activate the alternate map and away you go!

2) If your bike is a 2001 or earlier AND you don't see a brown wire as described above (some 2001's have the wire), you have the older wiring harness that uses something called a Cat Code plug.  The Cat Code plug is located under the top case and is usually yellow in color.  It's a plastic cube about 1" on a side and it just snaps into a socket under the right rear of the top case.  Remove your top case and the black plastic cover underneath to expose the Cat Code (this is an excellent time to do a Canisterectomy as well).  Remove the Cat Code and you're set to go.

NOTE: Many riders report that the alternate fuel map not only removes the hesitation in warm weather but provides a noticeable improvement in the way the bike runs in ALL conditions.  Just remember to use Premium Grade fuel to avoid pinging.

NOTE: More great information in this post by David Shealey

ALTERNATIVE METHOD: Many riders have found relief from hesitation by disconnecting the air temp sensor on top of the left side radiator.  See a full discussion of that method here.

See a full discussion of the air temp sensor method here.

If you'd like to read the hundreds of posts on the subject, go to 'Search', select 'All Forums', 'All Posts', and use the 'AND' Boolean operator to search for 'air' and 'filter.  You'll be up all night reading.

Yes, it will protect the bottom of your engine against damage.  The first release of the K1200LT did not have a skid plate.  The factory later released one.  Older bikes still in warranty are eligible for the plate for free but the labor may be the owner's responsibility.  However, many owners have talked the dealer in to installing the plate for free.  The plate is not difficult to install yourself if you choose to do so.

The factory may have taped spare washers on the body side of the mirror (these may be bent "lock" washers).  It's quite common for mirrors to come off when you hit potholes, bumps, other things, etc.  A replacement mirror costs about $200 and you don't want to have one destroyed, especially if you're far from home.  We recommend you firmly connect each mirror to the bike so if (when) it falls off it will stay with the bike.

Many riders use heavy duty wire tie wraps to secure the mirrors but some have reported that the sudden impact of a flying mirror can snap the ties.  Some owners use twisted wire that but that could snap if pulled too hard, depending on the strength of the wire.  Heavy fishing line may work if sufficiently strong (e.g., 100lb. vinyl coated stainless leader line and crimp sleeves).

If you want the very best option, Bob's BMW sells 1/16" aircraft-cable connectors made for this very purpose; they are about $18 a pair and they are very strong. (Call the number listed here)

The Bridgestone BT020 a high mileage radial tire with great handling and wet traction.  While they won't produce mileage numbers like the Metzelers, they're not bad.  Most report 7,000 to 9,000 miles on the front and 10,000 to 12,000 on the rear.  Other tires have been tried but there have been fitment issues and no real positive comments over stock.

IMPORTANT NOTE:  The LT is a HEAVY bike and requires special tires.  Do not buy just any ME 880s or BT020s in the same size as your current tires.  You must buy the LT specific tires with the following size/part info:

Metzeler ME 880
Front Tire: 120/70 B17 M/C 58V TL ME880 Marathon Front - 2.50 BAR 
Rear Tire:  160/70 B17 M/C 79V Reinf. TL ME880 Marathon

Bridgestone BT020
Front Tire: 120/70R17 BT020 BW TL M 58V V 23.8 4.7 5 520lbs 42psi 3.50
Rear Tire:  160/70R17 BT020 BW TL M 79V V 25.9 6.1 8 963lbs 48psi 4.50
NOTE:  These are the "V" rated tires.  The "Z" rated tires are not load rated for the K1200LT!

At least three other tires are known to fit the LT.  Performance and mileage on these is generally not as good as the ones listed above but some riders like them.

Avon Azaro AV45/AV46 ST
Front Tire: AV45-ST 120/70 R17 (58W)
Rear Tire: AV46-ST 160/70 R17 79V  

Dunlop D205
Front Tire: D205 120/70B17  Loaded PSI : 42
Rear Tire:  D205B (F/R) 160/70B17 Loaded PSI : 46 

Michelin Macadam 50EM
Front Tire: 120/70-17 58 V TL/TT
Rear Tire:  160/70-17 79 V REINF. TL/TT

Another option is to purchase a custom-made aftermarket seat.  Some of the manufactures listed in the Accessories section on ergonomics can modify their designs to be lower than stock. 

NOTE: Many LT owners doing their own service are surprised to find no crush washer on the tranny drain plug.  This is normal.  No crush washer required.  Finally, the tranny fill plug is located behind the right side drivers foot peg.  Be careful when removing the peg support, there's stuff attached to the back of it.

How do I remove the fairing (plastic, Tupperware, etc.) on the LT?

Start by downloading and reading this file (or view it online here).

Fastener size and location info is located here.

There is specific information on removing the nose fairing here.

My speedometer is way off!  Is there any way to fix it?

Vic Agresti posted the following in the 'Hall of Wisdom' on the main board:

Correcting an inaccurate K1200LT speedometer requires access to the back of the speedometer and soldering two tiny jumper wires on specific points.

The speedometer can be accessed by removing the instrument cluster -- then with it sitting on your bench, separate the cluster halves and access the speedometer. OR, you can separate the cluster while it�s still in the bike, and remove the speedometer that way.

Randy posted instructions (and photos) on fixing the speedometer without removing the instrument cluster here.

The procedures to access the speedometer by first removing the instrument cluster:

I�ve fixed two K1200LT speedometers after first removing the instrument cluster. I prefer this approach because it seems less likely (to me) to lose or drop something from the (very expensive) cluster. On the 2nd LT where this procedure was used, the very long O ring between the cluster halves came off. Had the instrument cluster not been sitting flat on a bench, it would have been impossible to properly position that O ring to allow reassembly.

It's not difficult to remove the instrument cluster; it just takes time. These procedures assume you have followed the directions in the repair manual to remove/reinstall the cluster. (The odometer reset button unscrews, which the manual doesn't tell you!)

Carefully remove about 25 bulbs/wires from the back of the cluster. The manual has an excellent wiring diagram at page 62.5-- so, you don't have to write down where the bulbs and wires came from. (There is one omission on that page however, the �extra� green/black wire is attached to the terminal just above lights 19 & 20.) Lightly reattach the screws after you remove each wire�s terminal, as those screws also hold the instruments into the cluster. Once you have the cluster face down on your workbench (laying on something soft), remove the back panel. There lies the speedometer circuit board (it's quite small, maybe 2.5" square).

WARNING: Be careful when removing and replacing the tiny bulb sockets on the back of the cluster. Several folks have managed to break the filaments in the bulbs and didn't notice until the bike was back together. Replacements from BMW are $2.50! 

To fix the speedometer error, solder a tiny wire jumper between the two points at the JB location on the back of the speedometer, and at the two points at the JC location. After doing that, if you have new Bridgestone BT-020s, the speedometer should then be accurate. With other tires, the speedometer should still be within 1%. Refer to the photos in Randy�s post, of the speedometer�s circuit board to see the soldered-in jumpers. (This is actually the REAR of the speedometer.) Take a close look at the JB & JC location and you'll see the tiny wires.

Use a 15 watt sharply pointed soldering iron designed for electronic work -- Radio Shack sells them for about $8. A 25 watt iron is TOO HOT and the tip is too large. Cut two 2" lengths of 24 gauge (that's REAL small) solid copper conductor and tape a wire over the JB points. Made sure the wire is actually touching the existing soldered locations so you don't have to hold the wire down while you're soldering. Use a very thin ROSIN core solder. DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER! For soldering tips, refer to: http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm Let the soldering tool heat up completely before you start. Then, very carefully touch one point of the JB terminal with the iron�s tip, then barely touch the existing soldered area with the tiny new solder . Should take less than 5 seconds per point. Use a VERY tiny amount of solder per point. MUCH less than a single drop. Once you've soldered each of the 4 points, use a small wire cutter to clip the excess 24 gauge wire. If it doesn't cut all the way through (since it should be touching the circuit board), work the wire back and forth until it breaks off. Lightly push on the wire at each location with a small screwdriver or other tool, to make sure it stuck. That's it, you're done.

If the inside of the cluster face plate is other than perfectly clean, now is the time to clean it. I�ve found that car polish (not wax) can be used to bring plastic back to a clear/clean state.

An optional additional modification is to solder one wire of a two-conductor (small gauge) pair to one point of the JA jumper and the other wire to the other JA jumper point. Then, run this wire THROUGH the back of the instrument cluster (or install a connector, so the wire can be removed). Connect these wires to a SPST micro switch that is accessible with the bike fully assembled. If the JA is jumped (switched closed), that will reduce the speedometer reading by another 1%, giving some flexibility depending on your tires and their wear.

So, are my odometer and trip computer (BC) also way off?

NO!  Even though they share the same pickup signal, the odometer (and thus the trip computer) use a different decode method so the odometer and gas mileage calculations are only of 1%-2%

What's the best way to tie down an LT on a trailer?

NOTE: There are many opinions on this topic.  Some great discussion can be found here.

Keywords: trailering Securing Tying Down

What is the best way to fill the gas tank?

WARNING: Do not overfill the gas tank!  You can cause the charcoal canister to flood which will cause all kinds of woe! 

My CD changer skips on even tiny bumps.  Is this normal?

Courtesy of Ray West:

1. If you open the right side saddle bag, you will find the CD changer housed in a black metal housing with colored foam rubber insulating the changer from the housing.  On the left and right side
of the housing are four screws. The two in the front of the housing are phillips and the two in the rear are torx. Remove the four screws and the upper part of the housing will lift off.

2. The cable is in a grommet on the back-right of the housing. It is pushed into a slot and can be removed by pushing it towards the back of the CD changer.

3. Once the cover housing is removed, the top section of insulation foam will lift up. It has four locating notches on the sides to hold it in place.

4. Once you lift the top insulation off, you can pick the CD changer up out of the foam. There are two connectors on the back of the CD changer that connect it to the electrical system. Each of the
connectors just pull out of the changer.  There are no locks holding them on, just the friction of pressing them in.

5. Once you have the CD changer disconnected, lay it on the top section of foam on your work bench to keep it from getting damaged.

6. As you look at the front of the CD changer, there are brackets on the left (was missing on mine) and right sides.  These brackets are held on with two screws each which are the screws that are too long on the 99' models.  Right next to where the brackets screw onto the changer are markings of the proper screw lengths.  Mine were about 8mm long and should have been 4mm, as indicated on either side of the changer.  I used a bench grinder to grind them off the the appropriate length. If you don't have a bench grinder, I would simple purchase more screws at a Home Depot. The bracket(s) simply keep the changer from sliding in the foam.

7. The 'H' and 'V' setting is also on either end of the changer, about where the brackets mount. I don't know what the letters mean but would guess they have to do with the mounting directions of H- Horizontal and V-Vertical.  On mine, the right side was set to H but the left side was set to V.  I changed the left side to V by simply taking my finger and pushing the little round lever to the H
position.

8. Replacing the CD changer is simply a matter of reversing these directions.

Note: The only thing to watch out for is to make sure you push the
cables into the back of the changer firmly so they don't rattle out
and make sure to put the grommet in the slot on the back of the top
cover housing before securing it with the four screws.

My temperature gage spikes up almost all the way to the top during stop and go traffic.  Is this normal?

My AM/FM radio receptions sucks.  Is this normal?

My radio display reads "NO RADIO" after it gets wet.  What's up with that?

Another common cause is hairline cracks in the rubber boots on the radio controls which allow water to penetrate into the display (called the Remote in BMW-speak because it remotely controls the actual radio).  Check these boots frequently.

NOTE: This problem may also result in the display showing "PHONE" instead of "NO RADIO" and/or the radio playing with the ignition OFF!

How do you adjust the speed sensitive volume control (SVOL) on the stereo?

Note: SVOL = 1 calls for a steep increase in volume while SVOL = 4 is nearly flat.

Once you have selected the desired setting, depress the MAN button again to return to normal function.

WARNING:  If you make a change to the SVOL setting while underway, be prepared to have your ears blasted!  If you change from a setting of 4 to 1 while on the road, the stereo is going to crank itself way up!

What the heck is that small rubber tower just inside the fuel door?

If you reading this going 'What small rubber tower?' then there's a good chance your Official Fuel Cap Holder has been trapped up under the fairing panel.  Next time you have the bike apart, be sure to align the tower when your re-install the right side fairing.

Can the gas cap be modified so that I can leave it unlocked?

The essence of the mod is just to MAKE THE LOCK CYLINDER ROTATE A FULL 180 DEGREES so the key comes out in either the unlocked (turned a few degrees farther than stock) or the locked position.

1) GET THE COVER OFF. Turn it upside-down. You will see that the cover is retained at four obvious locations or "points". Pull with a
thumb at one point to deform the cover until that point starts to come off. Do the same at another adjacent point. After two points
are "off" the cover comes off easily.

2) TAKE OUT THE CYLINDER. Really easy with practice. The lock will fall out of the cover and out of the lower portion of the gas cap.
Don't lose the spring under the lock; it's not really small and it doesn't fly across the room or anything, just don't lose it.  With
the lock separate from the cover, insert the key into the lock. Farther down the lock you will see a slot (I think) and on the other
side around the lock a small nearly-square "window" to the cylinder.  There is a retainer, almost like another flat "tumbler", that you
have to press IN to release the cylinder from the lock bore. If the key is in, the cylinder could be rotated to LOCKED or UNLOCKED, or anywhere in-between, so the flat retainer to press in could be visible in the slot or in the window; it's pretty wide, so it's
probably visible there somewhere, but usually in the little almost-square window; if necessary rotate the cylinder with the key so the
retainer is accessible in the little window. Stick in a really teensy screwdriver or paperclip, and press in the "retainer". Now you want to pull out the cylinder and key together, so you could turn the cylinder a bit (so it's not locked) so the key won't pull out of
the cylinder, or just pull on the cylinder flange with your fingernail; whatever, it'll be obvious. The cylinder and key will
come out preferably still together (if together, the pins remain retracted flush; it will come out easier that way and you're less
likely to lose anything, but it will still come apart regardless).

There was lots of grease from the factory on the cylinder, so nothing fell out of the cylinder, but theoretically maybe the pins could fall
out (as often happens with a door lock disassembled carelessly).  These pins are more like flat sliding plates than the normal round
pins in a door lock. Mine never fell out, I don't even know whether these can with the key in?? Anyway it's not a problem, but you don't want to mix them up or you'll have to figure out which is which, kinda like re-keying a lock. After the cylinder is out of the bore,
there is a white spring-loaded cam with teeth at the bottom of the bore; it can fall out of the bore now that the crank pin at the
bottom of the cylinder isn't engaging its cam, but it probably won't. The spring isn't long, so it probably won't shoot across the
room or anything, just don't lose it. If you want to change how tight the cap will screw in before it goes "click, click, click" and
just spins, that's what that spring and white toothed cam do.

3) MODIFY THE ROTATIONAL STOP SO THE CYLINDER WILL ROTATE FARTHER WHEN "UNLOCKED". Flat pins or tumblers can come out two opposite sides of the cylinder. In use, the key can come out when those sides
of the cylinder are aligned with tumbler-clearance channels in the bore of the lock. So the whole idea is to make the cylinder rotate
farther when unlocked, so at either limit of its rotation the pins will align with channels, instead of just when it's locked. You want
to modify the rotational limit stops in ONE direction. There's one protruding stop on the cylinder right under the flange under the face
the key goes in, which hits two stops on the nylon bore, one for each direction of rotation. The metal cylinder is stronger than the nylon bore, and that metal stop is larger, so I took off about 2/3 of that metal stop. Just make darn sure you take it off of the correct side of the stop!!! I used a dentist's burr chucked into a Foredom flexible shaft, but a Dremel would do better, and a teensy mill and
endmill would work. If you can't get the corners square, just grind a little bit deeper at the concave corners. It's small. I hadn't
removed quite enough from the metal stop to rotate quite far enough, and I could have removed more, but for the last bit I used a
disposable scalpel to shave the Nylon lock bore's stop just a hair instead, shaving and scraping to get the corners perfect.

4) PUT IT TOGETHER. Really easy with practice. Put some small vise- grips (not too tight) outside the lock bore on the white toothed-cam at the bottom of the lock bore just to compress the spring, then insert the cylinder (with key in place, otherwise you have to push in each pin) back into the bore (the retainer pin will have to be pushed in, or you can see that there's one place that the cylinder wall has a tapered or ramped shape that makes it easy) making sure the crank pin at the bottom engages the cam (it will if the cylinder is rotated to within its normal operation range of rotation, so just turn the
cylinder and key until it goes all the way in, then the retainer pin will snap into its groove), and remove the key. Put the tapered
spring back into the bottom of the gas cap (the part that goes into the tank, and the larger diameter of the spring goes toward that),
put the lock into the top cover, and press it all together until all 4 "points" snap it back together.

Takes FAR less time to do than to read about; takes less time each time you do it!

My trip computer (BC) does a lousy job of figuring gas mileage.  Can it be adjusted?

To adjust the MPG readout on the BC, do the following:

1) Divide the displayed MPG value by the actual MPG value, than multiply by 1000. For example, 48 MPG divided by 55 MPG = 0.872 x 1000 = 872.  Remember this number.  (Editor's note: You might want to run a few tanks through resetting the BC only on the first tank but measuring actual MPG by hand for each tank to get a good average.)

2) Press the reset and mode buttons on the BC simultaneously, then release. (Editor's note: do this with the ignition ON.)  The BC will display '01'.

3) Use the BC button on the right hand control switch to scroll through the four test screens.  Stop when '03' is displayed and then press the reset button.  WARNING:  Watch the screen carefully at this point!  As soon as you press 'reset', look for the very first number displayed.  This is the current MPG calibration factor but it's only displayed for a second before the number starts to count up.  The OEM setting is usually 1000 (no calibration) but it might not be and you may wish to return to the original number if you're not happy with the results of this exercise.  The number will begin to scroll, starting with the current setting, up to 1250.  It will then begin again at 750 and continue up.  When this number reaches the number closest to the number that you remembered from step 1), press the reset button again. That will reset the calibration factor for your display.

The other three test screens will not do anything.

My ABS lights are flashing in a weird pattern.  What does this mean?

If the ABS warning lights flash *alternately* or remain on all the time, the ABS function is not available. Two possible causes are listed that do not need the dealer's intervention:

1) If you turn the ignition switch on and *immediately* hit the starter button, there was not enough time allowed for the bike's start-up procedure to cycle through it's protocol before the starter button was engaged. That time interval should be at least one second. The solution mentioned is to switch the ignition off and then on again.

2) If your battery has under voltage. The solution mentioned is to charge the battery.

If the ABS warning lights flash *simultaneously*; the ABS was only impaired briefly and the system is now operational once again. If either of these situations was the cause of the fault, you do not have to visit the dealer. However, if the fault cannot be rectified immediately using the two solutions, then visit your dealer.

For '02 or newer LTs:

The following table explains non-standard blinking of the ABS lights (i.e. they don't shut off after an normal startup):

+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| BMW Integral ABS - Anomaly Table                                                  |
+-----------+-----------+-----------------------------------------------------------+
|General    |ABS        |Problems                                                   |
|Warning    |Warning    |                                                           | 
|Light      |Light      |                                                           |
+-----------+-----------+-----------------------------------------------------------+
|off        |on         |Only residual braking available in both braking circuits   |
+-----------+-----------+-----------------------------------------------------------+
|off        |1 Hz flash |ABS Unavailable. Startup test not completed                |
+-----------+-----------+-----------------------------------------------------------+
|off        |4 Hz flash |Only residual braking available in both braking circuits   |
|           |           |Incomplete self-test                                       |
+-----------+-----------+-----------------------------------------------------------+
|on         |off        |Tail light/stop light malfunction                          |
+-----------+-----------+-----------------------------------------------------------+
|on         |1 Hz flash |ABS unavailable for at least one breaking circuit          |
+-----------+-----------+-----------------------------------------------------------+
|on         |4 Hz flash |Only residual braking available in at least one braking    |
|           |           |circuit                                                    |
+-----------+-----------+-----------------------------------------------------------+
|1 Hz flash |1 Hz flash |Breaking fluid too low.                                    |
|           |           |Do the following checks:                                   |
|           |           |- with ignition on, is there pressure on the brake handles |
|           |           |- Both wheels brake?                                       |
|           |           |- Breaking circuit seal. Are there any leaks?              |
|           |           |If result is negative, breaking system is malfunctioning   |
|           |           |Warning:                                                   |
|           |           |Do not ride if you doubt the perfect working condition of  |
|           |           |the braking system.                                        |
+-----------+-----------+-----------------------------------------------------------+

Thanks to Dick Largen and Filipe Rosa Ferreira for the above.

For more information and other possible ABS faults, read here.

Is there any way to adjust the handlebars on the LT?

These are written for someone that has not previously worked on the bike. For others, some the early steps will be obvious.

If practical, combine this work with another project to save your labor. Don�t force anything. If a piece won�t come off with a gentle tug, you probably missed a screw, or something similar. Have a feeler gage available that allows multiple thicknesses to be combined. Keep track of the screws used for each piece.

1. Set bike on center stand, point the front wheel straight ahead, and measure the distance from the floor to the top of each handle bar end. Repeat until both measurements are the same. You�ll want this later for comparison, to see how much you have raised the bars.

2. Remove front turn-signal housings.

3. Remove adjustable (swivel) �winglets� (held on via 3 screws). This will simplify fairing removal and reinstall.

4. Remove the two screws from the 4" x 6" colored plastic trim between the seat and oddments box. Slide out and remove.

5. Remove bumper guard assemblies.

6. Remove upper fairings. The middle top of each fairing has a tab (at oddments box location) that inserts straight-down into a slot along the top ridge. Lift it straight up. (On re-install, make sure this tab is properly inserted into that slot.) Also, each side has a push-fit pin into a rubber grommet where your knees go. Pull the fairing straight out to disengage pin. (To re-install, apply a small amount of grease or Vaseline on the pin, align the pin with the hole, and push it in. It won�t seat all the way in -- that�s OK.)

7. Remove screws from around the radio/CD/oddments box assembly. Slide assembly to rear several inches, being careful not to damage the wiring harnesses. (On re-install, make sure the large gasket around the fuel cap area is properly positioned, before inserting screws.)

8. Remove two screws from each handle-bar top cap trim and remove. Access is from the bottom using a small Allen wrench. Insert the long and short screws into the top caps where they came out before setting the trim aside so you don�t misplace anything.

9. Remove the 4 screws from ignition key shroud plastic trim using a #3 Phillips screwdriver. (That�s larger than normal.) Pry up gently by hand, one side first, and lift off. Turn handlebars to improve access.

10. Loosen the 4 bolts on the handlebar clamps, but not so much that the bar slips down.

11. Remove one bar clamp only. Use a dry brush to clean the grooved part of the handle bar. Apply Locktite to each bolt and reassemble. Repeat the same step on other clamp. Tighten only so much that the bar can be moved up and down, but stays in position when released. This will allow you to adjust the height to your liking.

12. Center the handlebar exactly between the clamps, using the bar grooves as markers. Otherwise, the bar top trim won�t fit properly. Sit on the bike and position the handlebars to fit YOU. Take your time and make sure it is right and that you are comfortable with the controls, mirrors, etc., at the new height. Measure distance from floor to handlebar tips and note the new height. (Simply as a point of reference, I�m 6� 4� and raised my handlebar tips a total of 1 �� and that seems just right for me.)

13. Slightly tighten one clamp to temporarily hold it in place, and re-check bar end height and bar-centering to make sure it didn�t move. If you set the bar over a certain height [somewhere around 44" off floor], the top bar trim may not fit properly. Just to be sure, temporarily install the ignition key shroud and bar top trim before final tightening, to make sure the trim will fit.

14. According to the service manual, tighten the handlebar bolts on one clamp, using combinations of feeler gages under each side of the clamp. The goal is an almost identical gap on each side of a given clamp. Repair manual says torque these bolts to 21 nm. Repeat for the other clamp. The feeler gauge approach may sound unnecessary, but BMW�s reasoning is that uneven tightening could stretch one side of a bolt more than the other side of that bolt, if the underside of a bolt head didn't contact the clamp face uniformly. This could weaken both bolts, and in a worst case scenario, lead to bolt failure. It could also weaken the aluminum clamp for the same reason.

15. Reverse from step 9 to 2 to reassemble.

How can I connect my Street Pilot III to the BMW (J&M) ComSystem?

Does anyone make driver floorboards for the LT?

How do I replace the saddle bag trim strips?

1) The factory method is to open the saddle bag door and use a heat gun (not a wimpy hair dryer) to gently heat the back of the trim piece to soften the epoxy.  Gently pry the trim piece away from the saddlebag.  Then use something like "Goo Gone" to clean the saddle bag before applying the new trim piece.  Note:  The two sided tape used to hold the trim piece on is STOUT!!  Be careful when positioning the new trim piece because that sucker will stick!

2) Optional method: Squirt some 3M adhesive remover down behind the trim piece (being careful to wipe up any that runs down the paint) and then work a piece of fishing line behind the trim piece and use it to saw through the adhesive.  See 1) above for installation tips.

More discussion here

My battery is shot.  What alternatives to the stock BMW battery are there?

1) The Odyssey PC-680/PC-680MJ (MJ is the metal jacket version.  Not necessary but nice to have) - Many riders have reported great success with this battery.  They can usually be had for under $80 if you shop around (eBay is a good source).  Note: You'll have to modify the negative battery cable on your LT by bending the end up to form a 90 degree angle as the terminals on the Odyssey are different than stock.   An alternative to this modification is available from Dallas Motorcycles in the form a an adapter kit.  Read a review of the adapter kit here.

2) The WestCo 12V20P - Many good reports on this battery.

3) The Panasonic LC-x1220P - Not too many reports on this battery as yet but it's power specs are similar to the others.

Has anyone installed a headset into a Schuberth Concept helmet before?

Installation of the headset in Shuberth helmet is little challenging, specially the first time.  I've installed a total of five headsets for this helmet, 2 Autocom and 3 different brands.   I am not professional writer and the procedure is long but I will try my best.

You need to remove both cheek pads completely from the helmet in order to do a quality installation.
Tools you will need:
1. Torx driver - I believe size T8 and T10 or get small set, I have "Eklind No.22572" (It's actually a T6 - Editor)
2. Sharp knife or soldering iron to trim the Styrofoam if needed.
3. Good glue or double sided tape to re-glue the lining
4. Patience
5. Did I mention patience?

Procedure for speaker installation:
1. Lift the chin bar or remove completely if you prefer, it is little easier with chin bar removed.
2. Remove neck padding, two snaps and pull it out. (Editor's note: be very careful not to push the small metal rod that provides stiffness to the neck curtain too far into the curtain.  It will not come back out and then the neck curtain will not stay in properly).
3. Remove two small torx screws (T6 or T8) holding the cheek pad.
4. Push the pad inside and out slightly to gain access to the third screw near the back of the helmet (inside).
5. The bottom section of the pad lining is hold by Velcro. Pull it apart.
6. Under the lining you will see narrow strap. One end is attached to the chinstrap and other end is attached to the helmet with the blind screw, it is hard to see but is there.
7. Remove the screw (T10 Torx or phillips head, depending on year of helmet) and remove the chick pad.
8. Same steps to remove the pad from the other side.
9. Now you will need to carefully unglue the lining from the pad, about half way.
10. Under the lining you will see small indention for the speaker.
11. Place the speaker in proper location (check the Autocom manual) and trace the shape of it on the pad.
12. You will need to trim some Styrofoam to make the speaker even with the pad, use knife or soldering iron. Speaker will apply pressure to your ear if is not recess in Styrofoam and will make the helmet very uncomfortable.
13. After fitting is completed, use Velcro to hold the speaker in place.
14. Reglue the lining.
15. Same procedure for other side.

Procedure for mic installation:
1. On left chick pad carefully unglue top portion of the plastic attached to the pad
(looking from the front is the L shape portion of the plastic).
2. Slide the mic's boom under the unglued plastic and place it in the bottom of the "L" shape. Reglue the plastic back to the pad.
3. Connect the mic to the speakers.

(Editor's note: J&M mini-boom mics can be inserted 'free form' into the gap near the left side chin bar retaining latch)

Now you can start reassemble the helmet. Start with the right side (without mic).
Procedure is reverse to disassemble, place the excess wire behind Styrofoam padding.
To reinstall T10 screw and small strap takes some patience and small fingers.  (Editor's note: This is BY FAR the hardest part of the installation.  Be patient and also be sure to loosen the chin strap as much as  possible to give you the most slack in the cheek pad retaining strap.)
Best place for the main connector I found in gap behind the left chick pad, between left and main Styrofoam pad.  (Editor's note:  The J&M headset clamp works very nicely if you remove the small oval plastic cap on the left lower edge (black) of the Schuberth and buy a slightly longer 5mm bolt to replace one of the two you find underneath.  Place the new bolt through the J&M clamp assembly (minus the actual clamp pinch piece) and just bolt that sucker right up to the side of the helmet.)
I hope this will help you. If you need more info or some pics please let me know.
Marek

How the heck do you access the rear tail light/turn signal bulbs?

First, open both saddle bags.  Near the top rear of the inside edge of each bag you'll see a 10mm bolt head positioned such that the bolt is extending into the upper corner of the tail light assembly.  Remove these bolts and then gently work the tail light unit out.  This can be done by carefully wedging a small screwdriver into the top center of the unit to free it up.

Installing the tail light unit can be a bit of a challenge.  It's sometimes a chore to get the bolts to line up properly.  Just keep fiddling with the unit but don't force the bolts!  You don't want to know how much a replacement costs.